Friday, June 7, 2013

The jungle's bullet

This is a story I wrote for an Environmental Journalism class I took this spring. I have not edited it since I got feedback on it, but I hope you enjoy this first version. This is all true, and took place in summer of 2010 on my last trip to Costa Rica. Hopefully it gives a bit of insight into the sorts of things I’m doing this summer, and what I might be in for. Enjoy!





The bullet ant is aptly named -- with the most painful insect sting said to rival the agony of a bullet wound. Few, save perhaps the odd tropical poacher, have endured the pain of both. One of my fellow biologists had his first encounter with Paraponera clavata, while harnessed a hundred feet in a tree. “I thought I had been bitten by a venomous snake” he recalls, “but looking down saw instead three bullet ants stinging my leg.” A relief to be sure, but only in the mind. The throbbing would last for 24 hours, giving this ant another name- hormigas veinticuatro.


Painfully aware of this, I set out from La Selva station in Costa Rica, hunting for bullet ants. The second largest ant in the world, she shouldn’t be hard to find, right? I trekked the many jungle trails, ever mindful of the venomous snakes and golden Nephila spider webs which draped themselves off nearby trees. Partway down an overgrown trail, I spotted her – an inch long, sleekly black, with a long thin waist and huge mandibles. The worker bullet ant was foraging on a fallen log across the trail. I waited patiently for her to bring her grasshopper prey home. Where do you live little one? She clambered over to a sapling, barely two inches wide, and disappeared into the ground. My eyes lit up- it was a perfect nest for my mad science. My mission was crazy, totally insane. My goal was to enrage, and capture alive, hundreds of living bullets. And to do so, I would dig up this nest.


There are so many things we don’t know about these and other ants, particularly how they communicate with one another. I wanted to know whether different ants in the nest- foragers, guards, nurses, queen- told each other about their roles through different chemical labels. To get the nurses and queens, I needed to delve deep into the nest’s darkest chambers. And the ants needed to be collected alive for their chemical nametags to remain intact.


Such chemical nametags are commonly used by ants to communicate identity. Not quite ‘hi my name is Barbara the bullet ant’, but information such as occupation, reproductive status, and colony membership. The chemicals in question are called cuticular hydrocarbons, waxy substances on the exoskeletons of most insects. Initially used as a protective barrier against desiccation and microbes, ants have evolved to express a language of hundreds of hydrocarbons. My research aims to decipher this language, and maybe one day by manipulating their chemical vocabulary, talk to the ants.


The next day dawned as any other, but I had to take a deep breath as I prepared myself. I gathered my tools- a couple of buckets coated in fluon (a slippery substance ants generally cannot crawl up), shovels, and long metal forceps for grabbing squirrelly ants.


I tucked my two epipens into my backpack. Just like the honeybee, the sting venom of an ant can also cause an allergic reaction. And there is no telling how the body will react to a potent neurotoxic venom it has never encountered before. Uninitiated into the tropical biologists ‘stung-by-bala’ crowd, I was convinced today was the day to be baptized into the club. The mystery of the sting had bewitched me. But unlike most members, I would be facing not a single stray forager, surprised and scared, but hundreds of furious ants determined to protect their home.


Even so, I had miraculously recruited an eager, but also bullet-ant-naïve, undergrad helper named Walter. Together we trudged out to the nest site, buckets and shovels in tow. Our anxiety was palpable as we sweated through the jungle. We cut the tension with nervous conversation. Finally we reached the spot. A spindly tree, the smallest I had ever found a nest under, reached out over the trail. The plan was to collect as many workers as possible with our forceps, tossing them into our buckets and hopefully dwindling their numbers. Then we would dig.


We started our eagle-eyed capture of foragers. One, two, three, ten. Slowly ants stopped leaving the nest. We waited a few minutes without seeing any ants out and about. I took a long stick and plunged it into the nest. A few angry workers boiled out and we grabbed them. I probed again, mining for the black gold. A few more ants took the bait, but then nothing. No matter how much I cajoled, no more would venture out. They knew there was danger outside, and were crouched in darkness, waiting. It was time to dig.


‘Are you ready Walter?’ My eager helper was white as a sheet, anxious like me to get this over with. We both took a deep breath, and on the count of three, plunged our shovels into the rich black earth.


Instantly, the furious workers started boiling out. As I dug further, Walter stalked the workers with his forceps, grabbing ants before they could reach our boots and attack. He tossed dozens of ants into our buckets, black ants flying through the air one after the other. The provoked ants were making a huge racket, squeaking as loud as any forest frog or horny cricket. They were actually speaking to each other! The alarm signal, a high pitched squeaking sound, came from rubbing two parts of their hardened exoskeleton together. ‘Attack, attack!’ seemed to be the message. Quickly our buckets began to fill, and the squeaking was audible over monkey calls and parrot guffaws. The war cry of the bullet ant filled our ears.


Ever deeper we dug, and yet the queen kept retreating further under the tree, deep into the curving roots. A flash of white amidst the waves of black workers- we had just opened a brood chamber, where the immature ants were raised and protected. The nurses carrying worm-like white larvae and cocoon enshrouded pupae were quickly tossed into their own bucket. We had the foragers, the guards, the nurses captured for chemical analysis. The queen must be close!


‘Walter’, I said, eyes never leaving the wave of ants, ‘I’m going to pull the sapling down.’ It was the only way to get to the queen, and the reason I had chosen this nest, for its accessibility. The tide of ants had ceased, with the queen and her last entourage retreated into the deepest of their tunnels. I grabbed the tree, careful that no ants were along its length, and pulled down, hard. Suddenly, Walter screamed, and convinced he had been stung, I turned to see a huge bullet ant crawling up his mosquitoe netting right in front of his face. Staring cross-eyed at the squeaking horror, Walter froze as I swatted the stray ant off. That was close.


Alas, the Pentaclethra roots reached too deep. We could not reach into the deepest tunnels with our small shovels. We gathered our buckets of ants, about two hundred in total, and hiked back to camp. Deep in the jungle we left the queen in her ruined nest, her chemical brand still a mystery. And there too we also left the mystery of the sting. For we had escaped unscathed, for today.


Paraponera clavata- the bullet ant.

The view from 10 000 feet


This fall I met a bakery owner, a large and boisterously bearded man, with a verve for life and an undeniable energy. He told me about an interesting interviewing technique. ‘Baking is quick business’, he told me. Bakers are always on the move, having to juggle multiple trays of croissants, cookies and other goodies. Early morning deadlines mean delays are out of the question. So, to make sure his new pastry chefs can keep up, he would take all potential bakers for a walk, and let the interviewee set the walking pace. If they walked too slow, it was an automatic no. “I only hire fast walkers”, he explained.
            As I fly over the Gulf of Mexico, I have derived another interview question with a rapid rejection response. “When you fly on an airplane, where do you choose to sit and why?” I think that any answer other than ‘at the window seat, to look out’ should earn a good many demerits. I have flown a lot, especially over the last couple of years, and despite the many times I’ve been at 10 000 feet, the view from up here still amazes me. As we left Houston, the clouds were incredible, like giant peaks in a bowl of freshly whipped cream. Ships dotted the water like a life-sized game of battleship. Looking out there now, the wide ocean water stretches out to the horizon, and sets the scene for a new travel adventure.  
           
            I guess a good alternative answer would be ‘in the pilot’s seat’. The view from up there must really be something else.

A new adventure- in Costa Rica!

Hola!

I am going to be in Costa Rica for an Organization for Tropical Studies (OTS) field course on Tropical Biology for June and July. It will be 8 intense weeks, which I hope are as fun and rewarding and I am expecting.

Here is my basic itinerary for those who are interested:

Palo Verde                           7-16 June
Monteverde                        17-22 June
San Jose                              23-27 June
                           Association of Tropical Biology Conference (I may meet EO Wilson!)
La Selva                             28 June- 7 July
Las Cruces                           8- 14 July
Cuerici                                15-20 July
Las Cruces (again)              21 July
Las Alturas                          22-24 July
Then to Ontario on July 26th!

Please follow my adventures on this blog, which I will try to update as regularly as I can.

Much love,

Virginia

Monday, November 28, 2011

Back in cold foggy Berkeley!

Well, what a whorlwind vacation. I will give a brief summary of the recent adventures until such time that I have more pictures from people and more energies.


With the parents I went to Rangiroa, where I scuba dived with dolphins and sea turtles and millions of fish. I was pretty amazing and visually overwhelming. We swam with dozens of tiny black tip reef sharks, and watched several amazing sunsets. They saw the green flash of a sunset over the ocean. Then we spent a few days in Tahiti Iti and drove around the island a bit. Lots of good pictures that dad took, especially of waterfalls and waves. We found a hobbiton in the middle of Tahiti Iti, full of pasturelands of grazing milk cows. So weird! Then a few days near Papeete, which involved a good bit of shopping for souvenirs, eating good food, and seeing other thrills of Tahiti, like grottos you can swim in, and the Paul Gaugin museum, as well as the hotel pool and 'beach'. Tahiti ain't got nothing on Mo'orea!

All in all, a great vacation, but I am exhausted from traveling (got back yesterday) and super excited to go to Seattle for a visit with my well missed man! All the students were pretty upset about the cool weather here, and it is looking to be a good week and a bit of work work work! They still have the final presentations and papers to hand in, and then I have a whole mess of grading to work through. Bleh. So not as much fun as snorkeling!!!!!!!!

I miss Mo'orea already!

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Farewell Mo'orea!

Well, today is the last day on the island. I have been neglectful of this blog because my last few weeks/days have been so packed with adventure!

Yesterday we made an attempt to climb Moa Puta. My camera is still MIA so I will have to post some retroactive blog posts with the amazing pictures. It started to rain when we were partway up, so alas, me and 5 students didn't get to summit and see the hole in the mountain. There is a hole in this mountain, did I mention? The legend is something along the lines of a jealous warrior throwing a spear from Tahiti to Raiatea to stab his wife-stealing enemy in the heart, which formed the hole in Moa Puta. Eight of my students made it up, but then it started pouring and I got pretty worried that someone was going to die (and so apparently were the other instructors worried, oops), but then I saw them all sliding down mudslides on their butts and laughing their heads off and it was all good. We were SOOOO muddy. It was pretty fun!

We had a delicious last dinner, and it was very sad. Today is the last day on the island and I have to pack, swim in the pool at my parent's hotel, drive around the island one last time, and then we're going to see the Samoan circus tonight. That should be fun. Hopefully I can also see the sunset from somewhere on the west side of the island, since we've never gotten a good chance to see it.

It's been an amazing time here, but I'm glad because now the vacation starts! I am sure you all thought I was on vacation already, but no! The real vacation starts tomorrow with first a trip to Rangiroa, where I hope to do some awesome scuba diving. Then to Tahiti Iti for some quiet beach time. Then over to the the sofitel in Papeete to finish up and hopefully enjoy some of the weekend life of the city. I am excited for the food carts! My parents are enjoying themselves a lot, but I think they are seeing what I like to do more than what they like to do. What I like is moving around, seeing lots of things and not spending tons of money. They like to sit and read. Which is a bit boring. :P

Anyways, internet will be patchy for the next bit, but when I am back in Berkeley I will post up some amazing vacation pictures!!!!

Friday, November 11, 2011

Rotui!

Last friday, we climbed Rotui, the 2nd tallest peak on Mo'orea. It was so beautiful!

We started the day bright and early at around 6 am. The hike is really quite marvelous because you are on a ridge line the entire time, and have views of the whole island the entire way up. We saw the sun coming up over Mo'orea, so right from the beginning it was very beautiful. The trail is a little bit scary looking as you can tell. Very narrow, and with steep cliffs on either side. Sometimes the trail isn't real ground, but just root masses that you're stepping on. I mean..... it's totally safe mom!

Here is the only picture I have of Sierra, Gwen and Katie climbing the mountain. They were our speedster group who went a bit faster than me and my comrades.
Here I am looking out at Oponohu Bay. Isn't that an incredible view? The weather was perfect for us, and stayed nice and without rain the whole day.


We did end up walking in cloud a bit. It was so beautiful the way the clouds would swoop up one side of the mountain and it would be clear on the other side.

Up up and up! Altogether it took us about 4 hours to get the top, and a bit longer to get down, because it sure is steep! There are some places where you need to use ropes to climb because it is too horizontal and there aren't enough roots and rocks to hold onto.

The great view on either side let us see both bays at the same time. We could even see our house from the trail!  There it is, our Gump Field Station. My house is the last green roof on the left, a little beachside bungalow that I have been sharing with the other GSIs. You can see the student dorm next to us, and the fare potee (gathering hours) next to the beach.



Blue skies, beautiful mountains, coral reef, what more could you ask for!?

 Hoorah, the summit! There were about 7 false peaks before the real summit, be we made it to the top after some treacherous climbing. There is a 360 view, and you can see every coastline in Mo'orea! Such an incredible peak to be on. Probably one of the best hikes I've yet done.

I had a delicious mango for lunch. And then we had a little photoshoot.




 The way down was almost more interesting than the way up. Scrambling down led to much dirt on our butts, and a few scary moments. We had to downclimb a few parts, and Jenny almost slipped off at one point. I mean....it's totally safe mom!

Because there are cliffs on either side of the trail, it leads to some breathtaking photos that look like you're floating in the middle of nowhere. Look at those cliffs!




 The reef is especially beautiful up there. Thousands of blues and greens and turquoises.

A lot of the trail is bushwacking over stupid Diacronopteris ferns, which are actually quite unpleasant when they are scraping your shins by the thousands. I did not listen to James' advice about wearing pants (well, and I also forgot my field pant zip-off bottoms, so I don't exactly HAVE pants here), but Jenny had an ingenious solution of cutting socks as leg protectors. I didn't. Oh well!



All in all, the Rotui hike made for another great day in Moorea!!! This is what paradise looks like!





Thursday, November 10, 2011

A long overdue update!

Well, I have been much occupied with employment these last weeks, mostly in writing the Doctoral Dissertation Improvement Grant. This is the only grant through the NSF that I can apply for as a principal invesetigator, so it's kind of a big deal. It's only for 9k, because the University takes 6k in overhead, which is really quite ridiculous when you think about it; stealing from poor grad students now! Oh well, I have looked so much at the damn thing, that I don't want to think about it again for a while (studying the microbes that live inside of ant bodies inside of ant nests).

Aside from my grant, what have I been up to?

Well, we had a great halloween party, at which my camera got stolen, so alas this will be a photoless blog post. I am tracking down pictures from other people so that I can have at least some record of the past couple of weeks. I dressed up as the hinano girl, which I think was a pretty cute costume. Overall there was a lot of dancing and merriment. I really enjoyed everyone's costumes; many science themed. Alex dressed as the little kittens the students adopted for a few days and which I made them give away. Roxanne else came as a 'dolphin holding a bottle of rum' from that Mo'orea song that country guy sang at our Tahitian feast back in the day. Sierra was a scientist, and went around flagging everyone. Jenny was 'the black box of statistics' of which all our students are afeared. There was much cheering when she took the box off.

After Halloween, the two big events have been a trip to Tahiti, and a trip to Tetiaroa. These will have to have their own blog posts, because the pictures are necessary to understand the awesomeness (swimming under a beautiful jungle waterfall, free diving off a 50 foot coral wall etc).

I have been doing a lot of advising of students. Everyone's projects are coming along so well, and I'm so proud of all my larval scientists who are metamorphosing before my eyes into real scientists! I love when I tell them a shortcut and they tell me that it isn't cool to take shortcuts like that because it wouldn't be controlled/equivalent/right. This week I'm going to try to be buddies with some people as they finish up their fieldwork. I was a buddy with Camille and got to do some night snorkeling, which was a bit creepy but super cool. I saw an awesome swimming octopus!!!!! No pictures though, because we were trying to catch it (it got away).

OH! I almost forgot. I climbed Rotui. That was another exciting happening of the past couple of weeks. It is a large and scary mountain. Also deserving its own post with many many pictures. I'll have to do that early in the morning when everyone is asleep or I will just kill the internet connection here. SO many pictures from that beautiful hike.

We are busy learning Tahitian dance, but I missed the last lesson because I sprained my ankle on aforementioned mountain hike. We have about 6 hours of dancing next week to whip us in shape for our performance next Friday. It should be, uh, interesting. There is a part in the dance where we caress our bosoms. The boys are learning a sex hakka, which is a seduction dance of the Tahitians. OOOOH, I almost forgot to mention we got to see an awesome Tahitian dance performance. It was a troupe of traveling dancers, and they were AMAZING! At one point, five girls stood on top of five squatting dudes, and danced on top of them. The guy's dance is so impressive; they have enormous quads from all of the squatting and kicking in their dance. It is hard to explain in words what these dances look like, so go on youtube and search 'tahitian dance' and you'll be very impressed.

Now that my grant is done, I have an exciting two weeks of vacation! There will be some work too (advising students and being their chauffeur, shutting down the lab and packing everything away, dance performance etc), but I plan for the next couple weeks to be filled with lots of scuba diving, some hiking (Mao Puta!) and of course lots of lounging in my hammock. Parents arrive on Saturday, and it will be so fun to show them my island home!

Exciting times in Mo'orea, and I will really be sad when I have to leave in a few weeks. Now it's off to the beach!